by Margot Del Rio
As of late, there has been a demand for diversity in the media. This demand can be satisfied in properly constructed manners, but it has been tangled into a nefarious scheme to get more diverse bodies. There is a hefty price to pay for all this inclusion that everyone wishes for; however, the ones left responsible for the debt are the subjects themselves. Modeling agencies are reaching into African refugee camps to find diverse faces, promising wealth to the most needy. Then once the photos are taken, the refugees are dropped back into the camps with little to nothing to show for it.
It is a catastrophic yet intentional process formulated by money-hungry scouting agencies; this issue needs immense attention as both society and the industry are playing a role in the heinous practice that only spirals devastation through its injustice to pure beauty.
A lurking and longing for the next Adut Akech or Alek Wek, renowned high fashion models, has boosted the motivation of this recruitment endeavor. The dual beauties had derived from Sudan as well in order to pursue this life and succeeded, but the challenge here is that such a vast amount of women are being chosen without the proper care.
According to The Times UK the most targeted area is in Kakuma, Kenya where they are being evaluated, selected, and then sent to Europe with about 100 euros per work for all expenses along with the skewed notion that a fortune is destined to follow their work. The Times team compiled interviews with refugees themselves as a manner of efficiently relaying the opinions of the models.
A majority of the girls are then redirected back home with zero earnings, alternatively, a great amount of debt ranging from a couple hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars is expected once they are either deemed inadequate or too “malnourished” for continued jobs. Contributing factors tied to the environment of their homes work against these models and the industries are aware of these problems but continue this practice.
The entirety of this casting process sets these women up for failure, excluding the few that do bring in some money but not quite the standard they are being advertised. The modeling business utilizes a debt-based method to function. Visas and flights are funded by European authorities; repayment is often due after the business commences earning a profit. They are required to pay off their debts in full before submitting their resignation from their contracts.
It is no secret that inclusivity and diversity are still heavily yearned for. Naomi Campbell has even mentioned that there is desire to use African majesty, usually striking skin tones are in high demand when it comes to industrial desires due to the amount of money that oozes in and the diversity points that follow. It is something to ponder about, how this problem could be mended while simultaneously influencing positive coverage.
Sources
Models recruited in refugee camps: the case. (n.d.). Nss Magazine. Retrieved October 18, 2023, from https://www.nssgclub.com/en/fashion/34510/models-recruited-in-refugee-camps
Absalom, R. (2023, October 15). Select Model Management has pledged to revamp its scouting procedures. Mail Online. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-12632665/select-model-management-refugees.html
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